Have you heard of people selling their photography through POD's, but you don't know anything about POD,s and a quick google search does not help? POD stands for Print On Demand and are sites that you can upload your images for sale. In most cases you load a high quality image add a tittle, description and keywords, your images then go on sale but the POD takes care of everything else. They offer various outputs(prints,canvas,mugs,iphone case), they take care of the printing, postage and payments. How you get paid can vary, some sites pay out each sale after a 3or4 week period, some others after you make £50. The POD,s make there profit from the printing costs and can vary vastly with the same sized canvas varying by £80. You then add how much you would like to make this can be a fixed price or % scale and striking the right balance
0 Comments
Sony alpha users have a little known about extra in their cameras, it's called DRO (dynamic range optimiser). It's a chip from another company (maybe why they don't advertise is much) that keeps detail in the shadows and highlights. It only works in JPEG mode though, but if you shoot raw then review the image on the camera you are viewing a JPEG that will show the DRO image if it is on. To get a proper histogram reading in RAW you must have DRO switched off. As you can see from my sample images DRO can make a big difference and this is only in mid level power. You can shoot RAW+JPEG with DRO switched on but if you review the image in camera you only see DRO results and your Raw image could be very different. There is more in-depth information available on the web and I would recommend any Sony users do a bit of research on how to best set up their camera to stop any possible false histo Even at dusk when the light has just gone, I kept on my ND filter with a graduated filter to allow a long exposure to smooth the sea and bring out all the detail that was in the sky. Converted to b&w in photoshop using the channel mixer with a little burning on the jetty. This is your new blog post. Click here and start typing, or drag in elements from the top bar.
Water sculpture that anyone can do, my equipment consists of my trusty old Sony A700, basic Sigma 70-300mm (macro), second hand Minolta 5400 flash and £14.99 ebay triggers to use the flash off camera. For the water drops I use food dye and an old harpic bottle on a wood frame. Then's its down to timming and a touch of luck.I boosted the colours later in photoshop. This is your new blog post. Click here and start typing, or drag in elements from the top bar.
This is your new blog post. Click here and start typing, or drag in elements from the top bar. HDR. I'm attending college at the moment and hdr is frowned on, so they would have me walk away from this shot as the the light was very flat but seven exposures later and a run through photomatix and here's the result. The magic wand tool really is magic, when you know how to use it. You shoot a model against a white background so you can cut them out but the quick selection is struggling even with its refine edge, try the magic wand tool to select the white background and then inverse the image. Tutorial here .
Just watched a video testing the Nikon D800 as it is claimed to have the best 36m sensor on the market so to really push it they tested it with a Hasselblad H4D 40 40m pixel camera. To be fair the Nikon is about £2,500 and the Hasselblad £16,000.
The result in a pro studio the Hasselblad is clearly better, closer to real colours, more tones, sharpness you name it the Hasselblad won it, but not by huge margins. Out of the studio it was closer with the Nikon winning anything with higher ISO. The Nikon is sure to be a huge sucess. Flash Duration = High Speed Photography
Most modern digital cameras can shoot at a maximum shutter speed of 1/8000sec but that is not fast enough to capture a speeding bullet, so how has all these images been captured? Often these images are captured with shutter speeds of 1-2sec or longer? The reason for this is that they are captured in near total darkness with a very short burst of light (flash duration). Fast flash durations can be created with standard flash guns for example : Canon 580ex 1:1 Power = 1/1000second 1:2 Power = 1/2000second 1:4 Power = 1/4000second 1:8 Power = 1/9000second 1:16 Power = 1/15000second 1:32 Power = 1/21000second 1:64 Power = 1/30000second As you can see these can give you much faster times than 1/8000sec shutter speed. Special units are available that will produce a flash duration even faster such as the Microflash Ultra which can produce a flash duration of 1/100,000sec and the Hensel Speed Max which can produce a flash duration of 1/66,000sec. The table above shows that to achieve the faster duration times you need to reduce the power output, the offset being reduced light, to overcome this you need to get the lights as close as possible to the subject or to use multiple flash units. One of the benefits of shooting in a dark studio with an open shutter is that it removes the problem of “shutter lag”. Shutter lag is the time taken from when you press the shutter button till the camera fires the shutter (not including the time it takes to meter and focus). The time taken is only a fraction of a second but when your shooting at such fast speeds any shutter lag would need to be added in timing. When checking your flash duration data sheet you may see t.5 or t.1, these are terms used on how the rating was timed. T.5 (most popular) is the time a flash outputs more than 50% light and t.1 is the time flash outputs more than 10% light. A t.5 flash duration of 1/30,000sec, your t.1 time will be roughly 1/3rd of this = 1/10,000sec. These figures are important as it is this 1/20,000sec time difference that could cause some motion blur. |
Welcome
Welcome to my blog. My photography is on a tight budget like so many others out there, but through this blog I hope to show that great photographs can be achieved by all. Archives
June 2016
Categories
All
|